Rio Usumascinta – Agua Azul: Chiapas, Mexico

The Usumacinta river trip is one of the classics in the world and not to be missed. Relax in the hot winter sunshine on giant beaches, swim in warm clean water, traipse through the tropical jungle to spot toucans and jaguar tracks, shriek from the dinosaur-like gaspy roars of howler monkeys, visit two major Mayan archaeological sites, and paddle through a some exciting whitewater in the canyon. Everyone is welcome: kayakers, IKers, oarsmen, and raft passengers. We plan to have several rafts to support our group, so even beginners can take a shot at paddling a kayak. We’ll have at least two local Chol-speaking guides along with us for positive interactions and safety. The pace is relaxed, with one layover day planned. We have a full set of rafts, catarafts, kayaks and inflatable kayaks available and guides to cater to all groups needs.

Show your appreciation of a free-flowing Río Usumacinta and oppose the five dams that continue to be pursued by CFE (Comisión Federal de Electricidad). Please sign this petition against the dams and spread the word to garner more opposition!

DAY 10+ (Optional): Other rivers in the area can be paddled as day-trips, including the Chacamax (class III), Chocoljá (class II-III), Lacanjá (III-IV), and Paxilhá (IV-V).

Cancún (CUN) airport has international flights from just about everywhere, is serviced by most international US carriers, and generally is the most inexpensive to fly to. Although it is pretty far away (~10 hr by bus to get to Palenque), you would get to see more of the attractions on the Yucatán peninsula, including it’s famed beaches, cenotes, and various post-classic Mayan sites (Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and Tulum, for example) before or after the trip.

Tuxtla Gutiérrez (TGZ) airport is approximately a 5 hr drive from Palenque. The route between Tuxtla and Palenque passes San Cristóbal de las Casas, a charming colonial city very popular with tourists, and the Cascadas Agua Azul, another of the major tourist destinations in the region.

Villahermosa (VSA) airport is a 1.6 hr drive ride from Palenque. VSA is serviced by United, American, AeroMexico, Volaris, VivaAerobus and other Mexico-based carriers (also as partner airlines).

Our launch date is scheduled for Dec. 27th. This means that you should plan to arrive to Villahermosa the prior day to allow for travel time to Palenque and to get oriented with the crew. Please be sure to be mindful of departure and arrival dates as they may vary.

The Usumascinta expedition will end on January 3rd and we will be traveling back to Palenque, however we intend to spend a day exploring local ruins or other paddling opportunities. Return trips are generally scheduled for Jan. 5th or later.

You will need to pack appropriately for spending an extended time out in the wilderness. Although it will generally be quite warm on most trips, it can get cool at nights and during thunderstorms. Sometimes river water is fairly cold. Other times it’s quite pleasant (and even gets to >80°F on the Usumacinta March-April-May). The list below shows what you should pack.

The standard rates do not include personal camping gear or paddling gear. These items are listed below and can be rented.

River items to bring:
-Shorts+shirt (or swimsuit) – what you’ll generally be wearing on the raft on warm days
-Paddle jacket (+ light wool/polypro shirt: for when it might be raining/cold; can be rented)
-Water shoes (preferably amphibious type to wear on the river and hiking)
-Hat and sunglasses (with retainer)
-Water bottle (preferably with a carabiner to clip onto a raft)
-Sunscreen, lip balm

Camp items to bring:
-Tent (a 2-person tent can be used by an individual) [can be rented]
-Pad/chair (e.g. Therm-a-rest mattress/chair) [Therm-a-rest or Paco Pad+chair be rented]
-Sleeping bag (on most trips a 40oF-50oF bag is fine; often possible as RENTAL)
-Basic camp clothing (shorts, light pants, light long-sleeve shirt, fleece/sweater, t-shirt, 3X underwear)
-Camp shoes (these can be the same as your river shoes or a different dry shoe)
-Headlamp (plus extra set of batteries)
-Toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, lotions, etc)
-Special medicines (anti-fungal cream, anti-cold, antibiotics, antimalarials)
-Lighter/matches (remember to check it if flying)
-Pocket-knife (remember to check it if flying)
-Reading material/journal
-Insect repellent (REPEL recommended; very important for comfort in camp on some trips)

Special paddling items to bring (these items can be rented):

-Drybag (such as Bill’s 2.2 DryBag or the NRS Duffel)
-PFD (Personal Flotation Device or “life jacket”) – must be type III or type V
-Helmet (paddling type – WRSI may the best and most comfortable)
-Sprayskirt (if kayaking)
-Paddle jacket (several usually are available to rent if you don’t have)
-Personal safety gear (if you are in charge of a raft or kayak, consider a throwbag/biner/pully, tow line, or flip line)

Guides trained in wilderness first aid will provide medical attention to those suffering illness or injury. We will have one major first aid kit. Our first aid kit will have some pharmaceuticals such as anti-inflammatories (ibuprofen, aspirin, paracetamol), anti-allergy pills, immodium/PeptoBismol/Tums, and antibiotics, as well as items/implements to treat wounds and other injuries. If you think you might suffer from something in particular, please bring your own pharmaceuticals. Probably the most common ailment folks suffer from is gastrointestinal distress or traveler’s diarrhea. You should try to minimize chances of contracting it by avoiding potentially dirty foods before the trip. During the trip, we employ NPS-recommended sanitization methods in all our food and water preparations/treatments. If you do end up suffering diarrhea, vomiting, and/or nausea for more than a day, you should consider taking ciprofloxacin for a few days (this often makes the problem go away quickly).

Río Usumacinta is located in the jungles of Chiapas with certain health risks. We recommend that you read the CDC page regarding travel to Mexico and to Guatemala (because the Usumacinta runs along the border of both countries), consider the health advice, and visit your doctor before your trip. In general, visitors to the jungle areas of Chiapas should be vaccinated against Hepatitis A and possibly Typhoid. You might consider getting Rabies immunization as well. Although the area has had cases of Malaria, we generally encounter few mosquitos on the trip and you can protect yourself with repellent, clothes and by sleeping in a tent. To be extra cautious, you might consider anti-malarial medication.

In the event of a critical injury, we will raft the person to the nearest road access and contract a ride out. We will carry a cell phone, satellite phone, and/or SPOT device for communication regarding emergencies and changes of plan. Evacuation and medical costs are the responsibility of the participant. We therefore highly recommend that all participants obtain a travel insurance policy such as those offered through Squaremouth, Tavelguard, or Travelsafe.

All participants on the expedition will be required to sign a liability release similar to those for any outfitter. As guides, we are there to help get you safely to the river, down it, and back out, but due to the inherent risk of whitewater expeditions, we cannot guarantee against accidents, espcially if you are in control of your craft. If you are concerned about the whitewater or other aspects on this river, it is ultimately your responsibility to make appropriate decisions whether to run the rapid or not and to stay close to someone who can watch and oversee you (if you desire that level of protection). If an accident occurs, we will do all in our power to help you, see that proper care is rendered, or evacuate you if need be. Other problems may occur that are out of our control. Again, we highly recommend that all participants obtain a travel insurance policy (see Squaremouth, Tavelguard, or Travelsafe). You are responsible for personal equipment loss, missed flights, and evacuation/medical costs.

The Usumacinta is generally a safe place these days, owing to the facts that the Guatemalan civil war and Zapatista uprising are distant memories, caretakers/guards/police are stationed at the Mexican reserves, and the Guatemalan military is now stationed by Piedras Negras and regularly travel up and down the river. Thousands of tourists travel down the river each year on motorized lancha to visit Yaxchilán. Although we have never had assaults or problems on any Usumacinta trip run by SierraRios (a total of >25 trips run between 2010-2018), we continue to take several precautions to avoid any problems, including (a) having local Chol-speaking guides along on our trip, (b) selecting safer camps, (c) avoiding areas that might be prone to bandidos/assault, (d) knowing the current situation in the area, and (e) paying for special security. We strongly recommend against anyone venturing down the river without taking such precautions.

You might be concerned about the violence in Mexico surrounding the drug war that has been in the news a lot in the past decade. This violence is generally restricted to drug traffickers (narcotraficantes) and those associated with them, including law enforcement. As such, we are not likely to be harassed or molested in any way related to the drug war. For further discussion of the drug war and safety concerns, click here.

Dec-Jan are semi-dry times of the year with usually warm temperatures but some chance of storms.  In general, highs can be expected to be 24-33oC (76-92oF) and lows 17-24oC (62-76oF). When there are northern cold fronts blowing through, the highs can be as low as 70oF and it can be quite rainy. The water temperature in the river from Dec-Jun generally reflects the average temperature of the air.

You should take precautions against bug bites. Midges (aka no-see-ems; jejenes), chiggers, and mosquitos are the most frequent culprits. PROTECT YOURSELF and you won’t suffer so much! Put on repellent (REPEL works extremely well) at the put-in and as soon as we land at camp or the take-out, and also in the morning after getting out of your tent. Wear light airy pants and long-sleeve shirts. Choose Bugs-Away clothing or make your own by soaking your clothing in permethrin. Avoid walking around grass where cattle are common and chiggers hang out.

Note: if you’re not immunologically adapted to the area, the midge bites often lead to very itchy red welts!

Water levels on the Usumacinta are generally medium in Dec-Jan, and low Feb-May. Low water is nice in the sense that more beaches are exposed, the river runs clearer, and there are more features in rapids such as surf waves. The river can be done any time of year though, and most of the river is not much more difficult at high water, though bigger whirlpools develop, swims in the rapids can be very dangerous, and some camps will not be available (be extra careful in the Gran Cañon de San José, where huge whirlpools can develop at high water and flip even 16′ rafts!).

Historical flow hydrographs for the Usumacinta  be viewed at the following link:

Historical flow: Usumacinta (Boca del Cerro)

that more beaches are exposed, the river runs clearer, and 

FOOD:

Breakfast: always available are: coffee, tea, milk, cereals, and fruits. Sometimes we’ll have yoghurt and orange juice. Many mornings we’ll prepare something special such as oatmeal, pancakes, breakfast burritos, french toast, or eggs, toast, hash-browns, bacon and/or sausage.

Lunch: Items typically available are trail mix, dried fruits, energy bars, chips, cookies, and sandwiches. Sandwiches can vary: ham/turkey, cheese, avocados, tomatoes, lettuce, mustard, mayo; later maybe tunafish; always PB&J. Sometimes something different will be prepared (tabouli, pasta salad, chicken cous-cous, burritos, or various leftovers).

Dinner: Meat will always be prepared separate and there are always appetizers. While almost anything is possible, typical dinners are the following:

General (turkey, steak, and/or salmon; mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, corn, gravy)
Mexican (tamales, chile rellenos, tacos, or burritos; with beans/tortillas/guacamole; chips/salsa or soup to start)
Italian (pasta with marinara or pesto sauce; sauteed squash/chorizo/meat/parmesan; salad or soup/garlic bread)
Indian (curried vegetables, lentils and/or various Tasty Bites; couscous or rice)
Chinese (rice and stir-fry veggies/meats; raman soup appetizer)
Thai (panang or curry with vegetables/meats; rice; tom yum soup appetizer)
Greek (kebabs, falafel, dolmas, pita and/or rice; olives, feta, Greek salad)
Peruvian (lomo saltado/ají de gallina/estofado with rice/soup)

Desserts: There will always be some form of sweet to eat – cookies, chocolates, flan, brownies, etc. On trips with large rafts, we will bring a Dutch Oven and often prepare brownies, cookies, cakes, and/or corn bread.

ALCOHOL/DRINKS:
A standard range of prepared beverages is provided on all trips, usually consisting of milk/tea/coffee/juice/hot cocoa in camp, and Gatorade, iced tea, other drink mixes, or sodas in the afternoon and evening. Alcoholic beverages and canned beverages are not included in the quoted rates for trips. However, we can carry some for you – in general there will be a standard “alcohol/drink addition” that can be selected and paid for on a trip [usually including wine, canned beer and sometimes cocktails, though other canned beverages are possible]. On trips with large rafts, we will likely have a dedicated ice cooler to chill some general drinks and canned beverages (though on longer trips, ice may completely melt away).

WATER:
We will bring filters and treatment products and provide safe drinking water on the entire expedition. Our standard is a Katadyn Expedition filter (0.2 um ceramic unit). We always collect and purify CLEAR WATER. Rivers often run with a lot of silt and other contaminants and take more effort to convert to clear drinking water than many of the clear side streams. Arroyos with little or no habitation contain pristine water that is usually much safer to drink and doesn’t clog filters. Thus we will usually collect water from springs and clear side streams. To assure clean drinking water, the most common method we use is to filter the water and then also treat with hypochlorite. However, we may also boil, use iodine, or use just filtration or just hypochlorite. Water will be transported in 5-gallon containers. You should bring your own water bottle (or two).

Water for dishwashing and sanitation will be collected from clear sources if possible. If silty river water must be used, often we will have alum along that allows silt to be settled out. This clearer water can then be treated with a bit of hypoclorite and used for washing/sanitizing (see below).

TOILET AND BATHING
Bathing: The river and side streams are often warm enough to use on these trips. You also can bath directly in the river using biodegradable soap. Sometimes we may also have a solar shower, which may be preferable as the soap goes into the dirt and decomposes there instead of in the river. We may be able to heat water on the fire for bathing as well. Please wash and bath with a minimal amount of soap/shampoo and try not to leave foamy residues for others in the camp to find.

Toilet: Urinating should be done directly into the river or away from camp and out of sight of others. We will generally be bringing a toilet, but it will be set over an excavated latrine hole away from the camp and protected from view. We use a paddle to indicate if the latrine is occupied. If no paddle visible by toilet path, it is occupied; an upright paddle indicates it is not [carry the paddle to the toilet and use to toss a little sand in the pit when done]. TP and a TP bag will be by the latrine. TP should be placed in the bag for later burning. A handwash station will be nearby. Always wash your hands after bathroom use. The latrine will be covered with sand/dirt in the morning before we take off on the river.

SANITATION: We will take precautions to make sure all water, food, and plates/bowls/utensils provided on the trip are free of microbes so you should not have to worry about it being the cause of traveler’s diarrhea. We generally follow the NPS Sanitation Guidelines on SierraRios trips. We will sanitize drinking water with filtration and bleach, sanitize all food contact surfaces, require sanitation of hands at the handwash stations, sanitize vegetables that are eaten raw, and sanitize tables and other surfaces. We will discard potentially harmful cooked food that has been sitting out for extended periods. The trip leader (or a designee) will be in charge of making sure the proper amounts of hypochlorite (bleach) are added to:

Drinking water supplies: filtration through a Katadyn Expedition filter, and then 1 drop bleach per gallon; let stand 30+ min; the amount depends on quality/clarity of the water. If no filter is available, we will add 2 drops bleach per liter (~8 drops per gallon).

Hand wash water in buckets (to 100 ppm): ~1.5 mL per liter; or 6 mL per gallon; possibly more for silty water; a syringe will be available for measurement; for a normal 4 gallon bucket of water, we add 24 mL of bleach

Dish sanitizing water SEE HERE (to 100 ppm: ~1.5 mL per liter or 6 mL per gallon); possibly more for silty water; note 5 mL = 1 teaspoon: for a normal 4 gallon tub of water, we add 24 mL of bleach

In some cases we may not have a handwash station set up at lunch. In such instances, we will have alcohol sanitization gel, which should be applied to your hands before handling food/etc.

Also please note that you should always try to minimize your contact with foods that may be consumed by others. In particular, with chips/trail mix, DO NOT REACH YOUR HAND INTO THE BAG. Rather, pour out the quantity that you want – into your hand – and leave the rest untouched for the next person to pour.

Río Usumacinta is in danger of drowning. On a recent Usumacinta trip (March 2013) our friends at SierraRios learned from residents near Boca del Cerro that companies and government individuals had come in to survey the value of the forest that would be drowned. Residents are opposed to the dams. Yet the projects seem to still be planned.

VOICE YOUR OPPOSITION TO THE TENOSIQUE DAM!

Actions to take:

PETITION: sign the petition against the dam and forward to others. “Like” on Facebook, email the link, share!

RAFT TRIP: We invite you to experience the Usumacinta yourself and become familiar with the ruins, jungle, and residents. Launches scheduled Dec-Apr each year.

DONATION: SierraRios can spread the word more and increase appreciation of the river with donations.

LETTER: Write your own letter to Presidente Peña Nieto of Mexico expressing your concern about the river and desire to see this unique Mayan heritage area preserved for future generations.

Use this link to send a message: http://www.presidencia.gob.mx/contacto/

SAMPLE LETTER:

Dear President Enrique Peña Nieto,

The Usumacinta River is one of the wonders of Mexico and deserves protection in its natural state. This river, known as the River of the Sacred Monkey, was a major route of transportation of the ancient Maya. With its forests, ruins, jungle wildlife, beaches, and rapids, it is of the same value to México as the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River is to the United States. These special places deserve conservation and protection. I was concerned to read that there are plans to build a dam on the Usumacinta River at Boca del Cerro, Yaxchilan, and elsewhere. Apparently those in the CFE proposing these projects do not realize they are going to destroy a magnificent natural and cultural resource with these reservoirs.

As President of the Republic of Mexico, I ask you that you follow the example of President Teddy Roosevelt when he protected the Grand Canyon of the Colorado of the United States as a national park. Please protect Río Usumacinta in its free-flowing state so future generations can enjoy and appreciate it.

Sincerely,

James “Rocky” Contos
Director, SierraRios

Basic package: $1600 per participant

This includes the following: transport from Palenque to the river and back (Palenque or Frontera after the trip), food on the river trip (starting from drive to put-in until lunch at take-out), boats, personal paddling gear (pfd and helmet) , group camp gear, park entrance fees (Frontera, Yaxchilán, Piedras Negras), guides, security, storage (of your bags while on the river trip).

All-inclusive package: $2400 per participant

Note that the trip cost includes ground transportation to and from Villahermosa (VSA) as well as lodging while in town and one final meal to celebrate the completion of our trip. The following is provided in the all-inclusive package: airport transportation, two nights at the hotel in Palenque, 1 restaurant dinner, all personal camping gear (sleeping bag, tent, sleeping pad), airport transfers or flights, and additional excursions before/after trip – Palenque ruins, Chocoljá, AguaAzul/Shumuljá, Bonampak (unless otherwise indicated).

If you are interested in kayaking, or participating in one of our kayak clinics, please reach out to us so that we can discuss further and develop a plan best suited for your skill level. Kayak clinics will be featured as an additional item and more information will be coming to our website soon!

A $600 deposit is required to secure space on the trip.

Trip Leader: Patrick Griffin

Patrick brings a wealth of international travel experience to the team for the 2023/2024 Usumascinta Trip.  For the past two decades Patrick has work on and traveled to rivers in Costa Rica, Australia, Chile, Zimbabwe, Uganda, Norway, Chile, Nepal & India.  From that experience Patrick has successfully led client groups to Mexico, Norway, Nepal, & India.  As a former high school teacher in Henrico County for 6 years, Patrick also has a passion for sharing experiences with the younger generation that are transferable beyond just skills learned on the river.

As an ACA L4 Kayak Instructor & Sierra Rescue Swiftwater Rescue Instructor Patrick likes to incorporate sharing these skills with others during their international trips with RVA Paddlesports.  As the lead kayak instructor fo RVAPS he has helped some younger paddlers gain abilities and fundamentals that are transferrable to even the highest level, including competing at the Freestyle Junior World Championships.

Patrick is excited to get back to Chiapas for the third time.  The Usu is a special place for him because of the diverse cultural experience of the trip as well as the community formed when traveling to remote places and camping along the river.

Guide: Grace Lumsden-Cook

Grace is a recent graduate of Virginia Commonwealth University where she earned a Masters in Environmental Science.  During her time at VCU she also received the River Studies and Leadership Certificate and worked with the River Management Society since 2021. At VCU, she led multiple overnight trips, on and off the water, and created field-based curriculum for undergraduate and graduate students that aimed to teach them about the value of scenic natural resources in Virginia. Grace brings a wealth of knowledge on logistics and trip planing from her time at VCU’s Outdoor Adventure Program, as well as running operations with RVA Paddlesports.

Her organizational skills as well as enthusiasm in working with kids will be valuable tools for any group joining the 2023/2024 Usu trip.  Grace is most excited about sleeping on large beaches in the jungle, and rowing gear down a multi-day river trip during her time in Mexico. She is interested in deepening her understanding of how the natural and human-made environments interact, and is committed to sharing the wild places of our planet with others so that they can develop a stronger sense of conservation and protection.